Update, June 2026: We now include implant-grade titanium starter jewelry in our piercing prices. That's different from what this post warns about — here's the difference → Is jewelry included in the service price?
Choosing the right body jewelry is ESSENTIAL to having a good quality piercing that will heal well and fast. Improperly fitted jewelry, jewelry with poor finish or poor metals, or jewelry with external threading can cause you many problems during the install and healing process of your piercing. If you find a piercer who does not use quality jewelry, does not have appropriate stock for sizing, or has externally threaded jewelry — please leave.
Finish
The finish of your jewelry is extremely important. Imagine what a piercing actually is — a hole made in your body with a foreign object inserted, which your body is expected to accept and heal around. One piece has an absolutely smooth mirror finish; the other has many nicks and scratches. Your body prefers the first: it's easier to heal, gives bacteria nowhere to hide, and can be fully sterilized in a steam autoclave. The scratched piece causes irritation, harbors bacteria, and may not fully sterilize — autoclave makers warn against it. You can often see the difference with the naked eye.
Internally vs. externally threaded jewelry
The first thing to look for is whether jewelry is internally or externally threaded. To make it easy: if your piercer has any externally threaded jewelry anywhere in the building, walk away. The bar must pass through your fresh piercing to install it, and again to remove it for cleaning. Externally threaded jewelry has threads on the bar, causing tissue damage and pain every time. Internally threaded jewelry has the threading inside the bar, allowing smooth insertion.
Import vs. domestic metal
Another big factor is the metal — and buying domestic is far better than imported. Mill certificates are the reason. High-quality companies provide a certification that the metal meets specific requirements. Cheap imported “implant grade stainless steel” often isn't, and has a high nickel content that causes healing problems. American companies are reputable and well governed — if they claim something is implant grade, they have to back it up. We only buy titanium: a step up from steel, and hypoallergenic. Consider using only titanium yourself.
Cost
High-quality jewelry costs significantly more than imported jewelry. At wholesale sites you can buy a stainless barbell for about 40 cents — which is why cheap studios “include” jewelry in the service price or charge $10 for it. A high-quality version of that same barbell costs us over 40× as much, but it's verifiable, reusable, lasts a lifetime, and heals well. You might pay $35 for a quality barbell vs. $10 for a cheap one that costs you discomfort, migration, rejection, or an infection. The jewelry is the foundation of your piercing. Don't short yourself.